LUXEMBOURG: EUROPEAN LIVING ROOM

When Earl Siegfried initiated the construction of its Lucilinburhuc (small chateau) in 963, at the hill above the river Alzette, he could have never foreseen that his home will become one of the smallest, but the richiest countries in the world.

Although due to its slightly military look it doesn't win over every visitor, Luxembourg displays its enchantment in its casual lifestyle. Strategically important position at the Roman crossroads made it a target to all great forces throughout history, so only in the past 4 centuries it was conquered and demolished over 20 times. Often occupations had given it a dash of peculiarity easily noticed in various influences in architecture but the lifestyle as well. Largest part of its today's features Luxemburg owes to the French military engineer Maréchal de Vauban who had, at the end of the 17th century, designed most of the city walls and castles, so the town proudly carried its repute "Gibraltar of the North" throughout the history. In mid 19th century, when its inhabitants aspired at knocking down the walls, most of them had to be left as they are because those were so 'in the town' otherwise it would have completely overturned. Today's remains: three massive defensive walls with 24 castles and the network of underground caves over 25 km long, so called casemates, are touristic attractions of Luxembourg you cannot avoid. thanks to the casemated, large number of the inhabitants of thsi city had survived the World War II attacks. Although they claimed to be neutral, Germans did not hesitate to attack Luxemburg really roughly two times.

The most beautiful part of the walls is next to the valley Petrusse, built into the natural rocky environment that inspired famous German writer Johann Wolfgang von Goethe to create his paintings and literary opus. Confirmation of the Luxembourgian beauty was recognized by UNESCOs expoerts, who enlisted it into the World Heritage list in 1994. On the plato above the Petrusse valley cathedral Notre Dame de Luxemburg was built, the city patron specially respected by the people there. According to the narrations, Napoleon had bowed to her when he conquered Luxembourg and refused to receive the keys of the city asking instead the same to be kept in the safe hands of Madona. Fourteen days of glory of Maria's celebration is celebrated in May and each day the statue, clothed in different gown, is balustraded all over town. It became a royal family custom that families from various countries gift new gowns, so Madona has quite impressive collection of gowns. One of the most beautiful gowns is the gift of the empress Maria Theresia.

Luxemburg is contrast of the modern business spirited, banking city and the secular fortress on the rocks situated upon. It is divided into four different parts: the center, old town or Grund, region along the river Alzette and modern area Centre Européen.

Entry into town displays a breathtaking scene. Huge walls, inside which there is a town at the top of the hill, swoop down to the spacious sylvan valley Petrusse, oasis of the nature, fresh air and silence. Great part of its relaxing atmosphere Luxembourg owes to that particular town area. In just afew minutes you can go down to the quiet old town kernel, filled with parks and woods. The center itself is pedestrian zone around two squares - Place Guillaume II and Place d'Armes, which is tha main town square, popularly known as the 'city living room'. Built for military parades, today is surrounded by beautiful trees with non-stop full restaurants and caffe bars, as well as the main town promenade. On weekends, Luxembourger enjoy the performances of young artists who cheer up the morning coffee at the small concert pavilion.

There is a genuine shopping fuss even though all those glossy clothes and fashionable follies are ot necessarily the issue. In Luxembourg you may find the most of world wide known brands, but quality classics and butiques of the domestic designers dominate. To the visitors who love to shop we recommend to pay special attention to the watches, eating sets and please at least come by into the luxurious Villeroy & Boch, very Luxembourgian cristal manufacturer shop. Place Guillaume II is rather small square where City Hall dominates the area. Wednesday and Saturday mornings it becomes very popular green market, with great choice of various fruits and vegetables, which are important part of the Luxembourgian nutrition. The most popular pastry shop in Luxembourg is also there, the Kaempff-Kohler, having the eighty years old tradition represents the place you must go to...

Right behind the Place Guillaume II is the Palais Grand Ducal, palace of the Luxembourg's Duke Henri. Although the Duke lives out of town, he is often in the palace for the diplomatic meetings. Inhabitants of this small state will gladly stress out how their aristocrats are quite alike common citizens. Even though we do not take these things as strange, many foreigners are caught by surprise with the fact that Duke's children go to the public school and that they can often be seen with their friends at the cinema, or that ministers walk freely all over town during their breaks and have lunch at the sam restaurants as tourists. Near the palace is du St. Esprit, wherefrom you have splendid view to the pictoresque Grund, and take that large elevator to come down to. Grund used to be workers quarter, but today this peaceful town area is home to the most popular restaurants in Luxembourg. Region along the river Alzette is just next to the Grund and it is favourite promenade for the citizens. Luxembourger try to maitain its spirit by constant renovation of buildings and churches. One of such methods is providing grants for painting of family houses' facades in traditional yellow-red colour combination.

At the cosmopolitan atmosphere of Luxembourg, it is no wonder that Robert Schuman, born very near Grund, so devotedly interceded for unification of Europe. Centre Européen with its modern buildings made of steel and glass is total contradiction to the old town kernel. Situated rather high at the Kirchberg Plateau, connected with the old kernel by the large bridge Pont Grand-Duchesse Charlotte, probably more familiar name to it is "Red bridge". Built right after the World War II as a dome to institutions of the European Union, to which Luxembourg is one of the founders. Today it is quite an impressive gathering of respectable insitutions such as European Court of Justice, dome juridical insitution of the Union, Eurpean Investemnt Bank, other European institutions as well as the most elite Luxembourgian hotels. Probably that is the secret to great importance of rather small Luxembourg in the united Europe.

Long history of defence and fortification, made the Luxembourger very kind yet quite restrained and stringent people. Their mentality contains strng desire to live independently and peacefully, putting their best efforts into maintaining good relationships with its neighbours. Need to interlock with nearby Belgians, Germans and French, as well as many armies that went through this town, are meritorious for the fact that Luxembourg is the country with biggest percentage of the foreign population within the European Union. Genuine Luxembourger are aware of the danger to their language and identity, but also great economical advantages. Luxembourgian language (Lëtzebuergesch) was recognized as national a decade ago and althoug its origins are in German, today it is very specific mixture of German, French and English language. School education supports multilingual lectures. Luxembourgian is mostly spoken at home, but several years ago it had started to be school subject. Every few years the lectures are in another language; first six years they have all the classes in German, then French, both being official languages. If we add to it that almost every citizen of this metropolis speaks English too, the advantages of the business affairs in Luxembourg are obvious.

Since 1929 Luxembourgian laws favor and encourage opening of banks and holding companies. Some two hundred banks, what is the current city statistics, is situated mostly at modern Boulevard Royal. Quite symbolic, the tower of the Luxembourger Central Bank dominates in the wide boulevard seeming as a huge finger warning people to save their money in the bank. Besides banks and European institutions, businessmen around the world know Luxembourg as international center of various fairs, congresses and conventions. Excellent roads, magnificent restaurants and hotels and other facilities stand as piles of such business buzz. Organizational skills and courtesy of the Luxembourgian Tourist Office and other organizations is very good, for example if you wish to organize a reception in the casemates, experts for conferences will certainly be willing and able to do so for you.

Conglomerate of nations in a small state, whose former teritory was reduced in favour of Belgium, Germany and France, brought large advantages to the Luxembourgian cuisine and culture. Even though not much is spoken about the food here, the fact is that Luxembourg has most restaurants per capita who won Michelin's stars. Famous Clairefontaine and St Michel are in the town itself, and it is easy to find out some very good places in the city surroundings. Few praised national dishes are, as the entire gastronomic offer, often described as a combination of French refineness and German generosity. Every gastronome should try Mosel wine and pork gammon.

Apart from Goethea, English lanscape artist William Turner could not resist the beauty of the valley Petrusse. Franz Listz had perfomed his last concert at the "Casino bourgeous", place that turned out to be the favourite exihibiting area to all modern artists. Theater, cinema and concerts are labelled with the large variety of creations in many languages and cultures, so commonly quite and modest Luxembourg buzzes with rich multicultural life. unavoidable part of the visit to this town is visiting Historic Town Museum, impressive architectonic combination of a modern glass construction and the old Music Conservatory from 15th century. Two museum floors are underground and they are built into the rocks, while you can reach three overground floors in large vitreous elevator.

Observing people in their usual activities, and knowing at the same time all peculiarities that display Luxembourg as the European center, remains an impressive paradox that to the inhabitants of the metropolis have quite conservative lifestyle, as a contradiction to the completely opend mind. Although Luxembourg strives to get closer to its neighbours, real Luxembourger always thought of their individuality as their pride. That's why their moto is, written above the St. Michel in Rue de l' Eau, "Mir wölle bleiwe, wat mir sin" - We want to stay what we are.

^ top ^

Copyright 2000 - 2006 Dražen Jurman. All rights reserved.